EL MIRADOR
BIOBÍO . CHILE
On this occasion I will refer to an issue that goes back to the beginnings of viticulture in our continent: the Bío Bío Valley of Chile and the mission strain.
In our continent the cultivation of vine vitis vinifera is related to the arrival of the Spaniards in the fifteenth century.
However, since the pre-Columbian era the Indians already used wild grapes called "cimarronas" to produce a drink mixed with fruits and honey called acachul. The acidity of this grape did not allow the elaboration of wine, and for that reason during the colony European vines were planted in America by the Spanish missionaries who required wine for the celebration of the mass. Hence the name of this strain: mission. The religious began harvesting around Mexico City, capital of the viceroyalty, as well as in Querétaro, Guanajuato and San Luis Potosí (later the fertile lands of the Valley of Parras, Baja California and Sonora were used for cultivation).
The Jesuits cultivated the grape in their missions of Baja California and the Franciscans did their thing in California. Fray Junípero Serra established 21 missions from San Diego to Sonora; The wine they produced was recognized for its extraordinary quality throughout New Spain, and over time the Spanish crown determined, in the face of competition with their own wines, the annihilation of the vineyards of the continent, a practice which fortunately took In a partial way and in countries like Chile and Argentina the crops were maintained over time.
Very south of Chile, in the viii region, 500 km. Of Santiago, the capital, is located the Bío Bío Valley whose majority percentage of plantations is precisely mission grape. In this region it is possible to produce wines of extraordinary manufacture, since the clay-loam soil type and the characteristic microclimate result in a slow maturation of the grape and a fruit expression very different from that of the traditional Chilean valleys, Is Maipo, Colchagua or White House.
Know a little of this strain, apparently the first vitis vinifera planted in America, thanks to the work of the missionaries of the colony. Today it is possible to find it in much of the continent, from Mexico to the Bío Bío Valley, to the south of Chile.
The interesting thing about this region, above the producers who sell their current vines to the large Chilean vineyards for the production of massive wines, is the existence of producers who have bet on the quality of the wines of the area, which already label Their bottles with a designation of origin Bío Bío, and that they understand that cultivating and harvesting the appropriate vines (pinot noir or Muscat of Alexandria) is the only way to generate differentiated value to these wines, hitherto unknown by most lovers of Wine in the world.
This is the case of Viña El Mirador, which began in 1849 and where the original writings are still preserved, mentioning that the plantations already existed for the date on which the land was acquired by its previous owner, Don Hipolito Benavente.
Nowadays this winery is committed to the high quality of wines of the region which, due to global warming, is also in excellent geographical and climatological opportunity. The idea of the current heirs of Don Hipólito, is to keep alive the tradition and culture of the mission grape, realizing with it very interesting coupages that offer to its wines enological character and differentiation.
Personally, in addition to these interesting wines, I recommend you to visit the beautiful place where this winery is located, on the banks of the El Huaqui River which in turn flows to the north on the Bío Bío River.
According to oenologist Alejandro Galáz Viñals of the Chilean winery Viña Ramirana, these are the organoleptic characteristics of the grape mission:
-Great structure.
-Tana, very dry at times.
-Aromas where the black fruits are mixed with the soil and undergrowth. Average intensity.
-Good power of guard in bottle.
- Average acidity.
- It is a variety where you have to be very careful with the extraction in the cellar since the grape comes from the vineyard with a fairly high tannic charge.
-It is not of great character: its aromatic intensity is not compared with other varieties like cabernet sauvignon or syrah.
-Good blend component (in small percentages) with wines that lack some structure.